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“A whole novel got written about this valley. Nobody’s written one about my usual bin yet.”

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Things to Do on Exmoor | Chase the Pigeon

Things to Do in Exmoor

Prices, opening hours, best times to visit and the stuff nobody tells you, everything you need for a first trip to Exmoor, England, plus one pigeon's opinions on all of it.

Exmoor straddles Devon and Somerset, 267 square miles of heather moorland, some of England's highest sea cliffs, and a native pony breed that's been roaming here since roughly prehistoric times. This is the proper guide to things to do on Exmoor, what things actually cost, when to go, and which bits are worth the walk. Five main stops below, plus a quiz at the bottom to see if you were paying attention.

01 / The ponies I asked about

Exmoor Ponies

I asked in the quiz about Exmoor's native pony breed, one of Britain's oldest and hardiest, believed to have roamed the moor since prehistoric times. Around 3,500 survive worldwide today, but only about 350 still live genuinely free on Exmoor itself, currently listed as an endangered rare breed despite their ancient lineage. You'll spot them grazing across the open moor, particularly around the higher, more exposed stretches.

The Exmoor Pony Centre, near Ashwick between Dulverton and Tarr Steps, is the best place to see them up close and learn about ongoing conservation efforts to keep the breed going.

Price Free to spot on the open moor; Exmoor Pony Centre charges a small admission
"There's a pony breed here older than most castles, and I genuinely feel young standing next to one. Keep your distance though, they're wild, not tame, whatever they look like from the car park."
02 / The novel I asked about

Doone Valley

I asked in the quiz which classic English novel, published in 1869, was inspired by Exmoor's Doone Valley, and it's Lorna Doone by R.D. Blackmore, following an Exmoor farmer's love for a woman from an outlaw family based loosely on local legend. The valley itself, reached by walking across the high moor from car parks near the B3223, remains a genuinely wild, atmospheric spot, and Oare Church, where a key scene from the novel is set, still stands nearby.

A statue of Lorna Doone stands in nearby Dulverton if you want a simpler way to tick off the literary connection without the full moorland walk.

Price Free, open access moorland
Getting there Walking access from car parks near Brendon and Simonsbath; check a map before setting out
03 / The cliffs I asked about

Exmoor's Coastline & the Highest Cliffs

The third quiz answer: Exmoor's coastline near the Somerset-Devon border is home to some of England's highest sea cliffs, rising several hundred feet above the Bristol Channel. The Valley of Rocks, a dry valley running parallel to the coast near Lynton, is one of the best places to walk this stretch, dramatic sea views on one side and feral goats that have lived on these cliff edges for around 6,000 years on the other.

The South West Coast Path runs the full length of this coastline if you want a longer walk, with Heddon's Mouth Cleave, a steep valley leading down to a shingle beach, a particularly good shorter option nearby.

Price Free, open access
Getting there Valley of Rocks is a short walk from Lynton
04 / Victorian engineering, still working

Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway

Lynton sits atop a 500ft cliff, Lynmouth sits at the harbour below, and the two are connected by a genuinely remarkable piece of Victorian engineering, the world's highest and steepest fully water-powered funicular railway, opened in 1890 and still running on the same principle today. The ride itself takes just a few minutes but the views over Lynmouth Bay make it one of the best short experiences on Exmoor.

Both towns have shops, galleries and places to eat, and the Cliff Top Café, in the old Victorian cliff railway waiting room, is a good stop for a Devon cream tea after the ride.

Price A few pounds each way, check current fares
Hours Seasonal, generally runs through spring to autumn, check current times
05 / A famous clapper bridge in a glorious setting

Tarr Steps

One of the best-known clapper bridges in the West Country, a genuinely ancient crossing of large stone slabs over the River Barle, particularly beautiful in autumn when the surrounding woodland turns. It's owned and maintained by the Exmoor National Park Authority, with a large car park a short walk from the bridge itself.

Combine it with a walk along the Barle Valley if you want to extend the visit, one of the more sheltered, wooded walks on Exmoor compared to the exposed open moor elsewhere.

Price Free; car park charges may apply

Best time to visit Exmoor

May to September gives the most reliable weather for the coast path and Doone Valley walks, and it's when the Cliff Railway and Exmoor Pony Centre both run their fullest hours. Exmoor is also a designated Dark Sky Reserve, so a clear night any time of year is worth setting aside for genuinely excellent stargazing, something few other UK national parks can offer this close to towns.

Getting around Exmoor

Exmoor spans a genuinely wide area straddling Devon and Somerset, and a car is by far the easiest way to combine more than one part of it in a day, Lynton and Lynmouth, Doone Valley and Tarr Steps are all a reasonable drive apart rather than walking distance from each other. Public transport across the moor is limited, so plan carefully if relying on buses.

Frequently asked questions

Is Exmoor worth visiting?
Yes, particularly for its wild Exmoor ponies, one of Britain's oldest native breeds, its England's-highest sea cliffs, and the genuine literary pull of Doone Valley for anyone who's read or heard of Lorna Doone.
How many days do you need on Exmoor?
A day covers Lynton and Lynmouth plus a coastal walk comfortably. Two or three days lets you add Tarr Steps and Doone Valley without rushing.
Is Exmoor expensive?
Very little of what makes Exmoor worth visiting costs money, spotting ponies, walking the coast path and Doone Valley, and visiting Tarr Steps are all free; the Cliff Railway is a small, worthwhile paid extra.
What is Exmoor famous for?
Its wild Exmoor ponies, one of Britain's oldest native breeds; inspiring the 1869 novel Lorna Doone; and its dramatic coastline, home to some of England's highest sea cliffs.

That's everything I've got.

A note before you plan around this: prices, opening hours, booking requirements and admission details in this guide were correct at the time of writing, but venues change these often and sometimes without notice. Always check directly with the attraction or its official website before you travel or build a schedule around a specific time or price.

Before travelling to any destination featured on this site, please also check your government's latest travel advice, as safety situations, entry requirements and travel warnings can change.

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